It was time to say “Xin chào” to Vietnam — our 14th country of this adventure. After a full day of travel (including a layover in Bangkok), we arrived in Hội An, where we stayed — yes, you guessed it — four days.
From the moment we stepped off the plane, it felt different. First of all, the temperature dropped almost 10 degrees. A refreshing welcome… even if it was still 25°C. We were more than ready for our next adventure, and Vietnam absolutely delivered. We chose to stay in Hội An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, instead of nearby Da Nang. Da Nang is bigger and more modern, but Hội An felt more us. And wow… It was fabulous.
We made it to the hotel late that first evening, tired and starving. As any responsible travelers would do, we picked a random nearby restaurant with good Google reviews and hoped for the best. And just like that, we were introduced to what eating in Vietnam truly means: explosions of noise and flavor. The food was incredible and such a nice change from Thailand. Less rice, more greens and fresh herbs, bold flavors everywhere, and unbelievably cheap. You can easily get a full meal here for under $2. Pho, fresh spring rolls, bánh mì… and that’s just the beginning. We sat on tiny plastic chairs by the sidewalk, enjoyed a free (and deeply questionable) karaoke performance from across the street, and watched random fireworks being set off in the middle of the road. We were clearly off to a strong start.
The next day, we spent hours wandering through the Old Town. Many streets are closed to traffic for most of the day, making it easier to explore on foot. I was completely mesmerized by the colorful buildings, the lanterns everywhere, and the flowers and decorations being put up for the upcoming Tết celebration. We strolled along the canals, popped into shops, and soaked it all in. At one point, we stepped into a tailor shop that had been recommended to us. We had zero intention of buying anything. We are still traveling for months, after all. And yet… 30 minutes later, we were being measured. Not even 30 hours, and a few fittings later, Joey walked out with a custom suit, and I left with a vest and jacket. It’s wild. It’s affordable. It’s incredibly well made. They literally make anything you want. My mind was blown.
That evening, we returned to the canal for sunset — and it was magical. Thousands of lanterns lit up the streets. Boats floated along the river while people released small paper lantern-candles onto the Hoài River for good luck and tradition. It felt like stepping into another world.
Let’s also talk about coffee. I was slightly traumatized after Bali and prepared myself for disappointment… but oh no. Vietnamese coffee is on another level. Strong, sweet, usually made with condensed milk — which makes everything better. I even tried salty coffee. Yes, salty. It sounds wrong. It tastes incredible. I don’t make the rules.
The kids desperately wanted to do a lantern-making workshop, so one afternoon we did just that. It was actually really fun, and they were SO proud of their creations. I’m honestly shocked at how good they turned out — and even more shocked that Teddy didn’t glue his hands together permanently. That glue was serious. Industrial strength. Also mildly intoxicating if you inhaled too closely.
For our last day, we rented bikes to explore outside the city. And by “rented bikes,” I mean we paid $5 for an ELECTRIC bike for the entire day. Yes. Five dollars. For the whole day. I still don’t understand. The only downside? No kids’ bikes. So we rented two electric bikes with cushions and footrests on the back for the kids. Cycling through the city traffic was… stimulating. But soon enough, we were out in the rice fields, and everything became peaceful.
It was my first time on an electric bike and I fully understand the hype now. So fun. The scenery was unreal — water buffalo casually minding their business, farmers working in the fields, lush green stretching in every direction. We rode through little gardens and all the way to the sea. We stopped at a beachside café (for more salty coffee, obviously) and sat there listening to the waves. At one point, while I went to the restroom, a man approached Joey with his phone. Joey assumed he wanted him to take a photo. Instead, the man showed him a picture and asked:
“Are you him?”
The picture? Ben Affleck.
Joey, confused but flattered, replied that no… he is not Ben Affleck. He then said “Oh, sorry, I thought you were him. You are very handsome”.
This is now the second time on this trip someone has specifically asked him that.
On the way back, we stopped for lunch at another café overlooking the rice fields. Once again, the food was incredible. Side note: Vietnam makes ridiculously good bread. Baguettes (for bánh mì), croissants, sourdough — all amazing. Maybe the French colonial influence? I’m not here to give you a history lecture but just to tell you that I am happy to eat good bread again.
Now, for the grand finale.
On the ride back, Joey decided it was time to “test” his electric bike. He took off. Fast. Very fast. I struggled to keep up, especially since the roads near the rice fields weren’t exactly Tour de France quality. At one point, I saw him stop ahead and thought, “Oh how sweet, he’s waiting for me.”
Nope. Massive flat tire on the back wheel.
We contacted the rental company, sent our location, and they said they’d be there shortly. After waiting a bit, we saw a scooter pulling a small trailer. “That must be him,” we thought. The scooter slowed down. Stopped. The driver got off… dropped his pants… peed on the side of the road… and left.
That was not our help.
Not long after, another scooter appeared — this time with a man somehow holding an entire electric bike on the back while driving. Yes. That was our guy. He swapped the bikes like it was the most normal thing in the world and off we went.
Joey drove significantly slower after that.
And just like that, our four days in Hội An came to an end. This little lantern-filled town completely stole our hearts. It’s chaotic but peaceful, traditional but vibrant, touristy but still authentic in so many ways. Vietnam, you’ve made a very strong first impression. And if the rest of the country is anything like these first few days, we’re in for something pretty special.
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