Our Peruvian adventure has already come to an end — apparently, time moves at double speed when you’re having fun. I’m sad to say goodbye… but also pretty excited for what’s next.
After seven straight mornings of pre-sunrise wake-ups (pretty sure my body has filed a complaint), our next destination felt like a reward from the travel gods: an ecolodge deep in the Ecuadorian Amazon. Four whole days of pure, unapologetic relaxation.
We flew to Quito, spent one night there, and then began the epic trek into the Amazon: three and a half hours of winding, twisting mountain roads (as swear they could’ve been designed by a toddler with a crayon…). I had the foresight to pre-dose the kids with Gravol, so they slept almost the whole way — no drama, no vomit bags. This alone felt like a vacation win worthy of fireworks.
When we finally arrived, the ecolodge was everything I hoped for and more:
A sprawling property surrounded by lush Amazon rainforest
Walking paths weaving through flowers, butterflies, birds, and lizards
A private beach and river access
An open-air yoga/workout area
Hammocks swinging lazily by the river
And the cherry on top? We were the only family there. Translation: the entire place was ours. The food was included, and delicious. Now that we’d dropped down to just 600 meters above sea level, our appetite came roaring back — so we ate like we’d been stranded without snacks for two weeks (we hadn’t).
On our first day, we did… absolutely nothing. The kids decided to run their own “school day” for fun (yes, I was also suspicious at first). They made a schedule with “classes” and “recess” just like at home. We ended the afternoon with some river playtime and a family workout session. Pura vida! (Yes, I know we’re not in Costa Rica, but it fits.)
That night we went to bed early, which meant I woke up early. I tiptoed outside for yoga on the balcony, and Emma joined me. Quiet moments like that are my favorite souvenirs.
One day, we decided on an “educational field trip” to the Cavernas de Jumandi — because exploring a cave counts as science, right? I imagined a small cave, a quick peek, then home for lunch. Oh no. This was the second largest cave in Ecuador, and we were going all in.
We put on bathing suits (thank goodness), strapped on headlamps, and followed our Spanish-speaking guide (our comprehension skills got quite the workout). The river cave meant walking through water, clambering over boulders, sliding through narrow passages, and even swimming under waterfalls. We learned about stalactites and stalagmites… while bats swooped overhead. The kids and I were thrilled. Joey? Let’s just say he was less excited about the bats. 🤣
Of course, the Amazon comes with… friends. Huge spiders. Ants on steroids. And one group of wasps who decided Teddy looked snack-worthy (he’s fine, just a little more famous among the insect population).
By now, you all know our kids are obsessed with dogs. Joey and I were a little worried they’d try the same thing with stray dogs… or other questionable animals. So we sat them down for a serious “Stray Animal 101” talk — covering everything from possible aggression, disease risks, and what happens if you get bitten. Well, apparently, we nailed the “scary” part of the talk… because now our kids are terrified of all dogs. Even fluffy, tail-wagging dogs get them into full panic mode. If a dog runs toward them, they scream like it’s the apocalypse. One time, Teddy bolted at top speed yelling “JESUS CHRIST!” — which, honestly, was quite funny. We still laugh about it every few days.
This newfound fear made for an awkward first meeting with Nina and Roamy, the two sweet dogs belonging to our Ecolodge host. Luckily, kids got more comfortable with them rapidly.
Life at the Ecolodge quickly settled into a blissful rhythm. The kids never once said “I’m bored” — a miracle in parenting terms. By the time we had to leave, they were ready to chain themselves to a hammock in protest.
The ride back to Quito, though… was less blissful. It had rained heavily overnight, and the road was now a pothole obstacle course — all while still zigzagging through the mountains. Our driver had two speeds: pedal-to-the-floor and slam-on-the-brakes. Landslides? No problem — just squeeze past with an inch to spare before the cliff drop. Dense fog? He drove like it was a sunny Sunday on a straight highway. Oh, and he didn’t speak a word of English… or know exactly where he was supposed to drop us off. Minor detail.
Family survival tactics: Teddy passed out (thanks, Gravol), Emma blasted heavy metal (thanks, Joey), I fought mild nausea while enjoying the scenery, and Joey clung to his seat like it was a lifeboat. We made it out alive… but barely.
We were back to Quito for a couple of nights. It was time again for another school trip: the equator line. One of my Quito must-dos was visiting the Mitad del Mundo — the “Middle of the World.” First stop: a volcano crater where people actually live… inside… while it’s still active. Brave? Or just a little cuckoo? Then we headed to the famous Mitad del Mundo monument, placed by a group of French scientists 300 years ago. Fun fact: they were wrong. The real equator is a few hundred meters away. Oops. So of course, we visited the actual Latitude 0° line and its museum, where we tried all sorts of quirky experiments. My favorite? The one with the water. (Spoiler: physics is cooler on the equator.) See the video below!
Notice the direction of the vortex in the sink: clockwise in the southern hemisphere, counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere, and straight down on the equator.
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