I’m quite pleased with the way we planned this trip to Japan. Our strategy was simple: balance the big, high-energy cities with quieter stops in smaller towns. It turns out that rhythm works wonderfully, especially when traveling with kids. After spending several days around Mount Fuji, we set off on a small road trip to the Izu Peninsula.
The Izu Peninsula is exactly the kind of place that makes you slow down. It’s a rugged, volcanic stretch of coastline known for its dramatic cliffs, hot springs, white sand beaches, and some of the freshest seafood in Japan. It felt like the perfect break between our busier destinations with Fujiyoshida and a nice place to celebrate a special someone!
Emma had one very specific request for her 10th birthday: a full Japanese experience. That meant staying in a ryokan and trying an onsen. So for our first night we checked into a place in Izu that was technically more of a hotel-style ryokan, but it still had everything we were hoping for: onsen baths, traditional meals, and just enough structure to make the experience easy for the kids’ first time.
Dinner that night was a feast. I’m not exaggerating when I say the table kept filling up with dishes. Small plates, beautiful presentation, seafood, vegetables, soups, things we could identify and things we absolutely could not. The kids had their own slightly adapted version of the meal, but it still kept the Japanese flavors. Everyone found something to love.
And then… the onsen.
I’m not sure how much I’ve talked about onsens before, but they are essentially natural hot spring baths. One important detail: they are separated by gender, and you enter completely naked. No swimsuits allowed. This is a very normal part of Japanese culture, but for first-timers it does feel a little intimidating. All the Onsens we went to in the Peninsula accepted tattoos, so we were able to fully experience them.
There are a few important etiquette rules. You must thoroughly wash and shower before entering the bath. You keep your small towel out of the water. You stay quiet and respectful. And yes, you are fully naked the whole time.
Surprisingly, it quickly stops feeling awkward. In fact, there’s something oddly liberating about it. Emma and I both loved it and ended up doing multiple onsen sessions throughout our stay in the Izu Peninsula. Some of the baths even had extras like cold plunges, golden mineral baths, and saunas. At times it felt less like a hot spring and more like a full spa experience. Joey also enjoyed the onsens, but for a more practical reason. He says that after an onsen he doesn’t have to pack a wet bathing suit in his suitcase. 😂
The next morning we woke up in the ryokan on a very important day: Emma’s 10th birthday. She had been counting down to it for the past 365 days, no exaggeration.
As requested for her “full Japanese birthday experience,” we started the day with a traditional Japanese breakfast. And this is definitely not your typical Western breakfast. No pancakes, waffles, or French toast. Instead, the table was filled with miso soup, rice, grilled fish, homemade tofu, pork, sashimi, and several mysterious side dishes.
Let’s just say Teddy was… less enthusiastic.
His official review:
“I would have preferred toast with peanut butter.”
After breakfast, Emma opened her gifts and spent some time talking with friends and family back home. Thank you to everyone who called or sent messages, it truly made her day.
Then we hit the road again.
We stopped at a few viewpoints along the coast and were surprised when Mount Fuji suddenly appeared again in the distance, standing there like it had been quietly following us. We eventually found a small bakery where we managed to buy a birthday cake and some macarons, although sadly, no carrot cake, which had been Emma’s original request.
Instead of a restaurant lunch, we stopped at a grocery store, stocked up on fresh sashimi, and found a park where we could sit outside and enjoy it all. It turned into one of those unexpectedly perfect travel moments: sunshine, great food, and nowhere we needed to rush to.
Later we checked into our next hotel. Naturally, the first thing we did was… onsen again.
The hotel also had a happy hour with special drinks for both adults and kids, which felt like a small celebration for Emma’s birthday. And for dinner, because birthday wishes must be respected, we found an Italian restaurant so she could have lasagna.
We didn’t do any major activities that day. No big attractions, no packed schedule. Just time together, a slower pace, and a birthday exactly the way Emma wanted it.
The following day we continued exploring the coast. At one viewpoint we discovered a staircase with more than 500 steps leading to the top. Teddy looked up, eyes wide, and said:
“I can’t even see the end of the stairway!”
To be fair, it was an impressive climb. The view from the top was spectacular, although Mount Fuji decided to hide behind the clouds this time.
Later we checked into another hotel and by now you can probably guess the routine. We headed straight for the onsen.
I love it so much that I’m now slightly worried I’ve ruined regular swimming pools forever. The next time I go to a spa back home, I might accidentally forget my bathing suit. 😂
Another highlight of these hotels: the massage chairs. After our multi-course dinner, you could reliably find us lined up in the lounge, happily being kneaded by futuristic Japanese massage machines.
For our final day on the peninsula, we made a few more stops along the coast. One of them was a beautiful beach with incredibly soft sand and a small shrine built right into the rocks. It was peaceful and picturesque.
Our last adventure was taking a chairlift up Mount Omuro, an ancient volcano. At the top, you can walk all the way around the crater. The path circles the rim, offering sweeping views of the coastline, the surrounding hills, and the ocean stretching endlessly in the distance. It was a beautiful way to end our time in Izu.
Looking back, the peninsula gave us exactly what we needed: a few days of slower travel, incredible coastal scenery, and some of the freshest seafood we’ve had on the entire trip. The rhythm of ocean views, quiet villages, and long onsen soaks was the perfect reset.
But now we’re rested, recharged, and ready. Next and final stop before returning to Canada: Tokyo… and a whole new level of sensory overload.
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